Ronald told me he planned to travel to Nice on the French Riviera, and we hugged and said goodbye at the elevator of Catharina’s place. At ten in the morning the apartment was already filling up with a most curious mix of people, all friends of Catharina, and all seemingly happy and excited to see her and meet her foreign friend. Of course we were all seated around the kitchen table come noon, and eating pasta and fish, prepared in mouthwatering Sicilian style, while wine flowed lavishly.

Catia suggested that morning we could travel to the isle of Elba, and continue our holidays there. Giorgio, one of her friends, offered to take us to the entrance of the highway in his Fiat 500. From there on we would continue to hitchhike to Piombino, where we could take the boat to Elba. Because of all the wine we felt like taking a nap before leaving, and of course started out too late in the afternoon, but with the confidence of youth, we were sure we would be all right.

A young, flamboyant guy, by the name of Giovanni, stopped for us in his Beach Buggy, and gave us a lift. Giovanni was showing off his skills as a driver and, being a good Italian, honked his multi-tone horn frequently at passing girls. While crossing the centre of Sienna, he actually got pulled over and fined by the police for using this apparently illegal type of horn. As evening was setting in, Giovanni suggested we would spend the night on his yacht at the local Marina. Of course we were happy to accept, it sounded too good to be true.

Giovanni installed us on his yacht and told us he had to run some errands, but would join us around midnight, he said he intended to bring his girlfriend along as well. Having unpacked we wandered around the harbor, looking for a bite to eat. Arriving at the only trattoria open at that time of night, we went in and asked if it’s not too late to have meal. The owner, an old man with a limp, smiled as he saw us coming in. “There’s not much I can offer you, but if you like I could make you a snappy Aglio-Olio!” In response to my frown, Catherina told me that this spaghetti is made exclusively with garlic, olive oil and dry red pepper; I started to object, saying I couldn’t imagine that would be a tasty dish!

The owner, having overheard my doubts, intervened in a polite way, holding up his hand as a stop sign. “Come now my dear girl,” he spoke in perfect but accented English, “Don’t knock it till you try it!” He told us that, even though “Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino” started out as a poor man’s dish, eaten under bridges where the more unfortunate of contemporary society might reside, it most certainly is a dish that deserves its status in Italian Cuisine, and when prepared by a good cook, a delicacy within its own right.

“Please have a seat, young ladies” He said, walking away without waiting for our reaction to this gastronomically educational intermezzo, and pointed to one of the three tables in the establishment, featuring a large crystal ashtray with a prominent number 13* engraved on its side.

(to be continued in: The Corsicans – part one)

*13: The symbolic meaning of number thirteen receives a shady interpretation in Norse myth, when an honorary banquet was held in Valhalla for Baldur (god of nobility, redemption and admirable strength) among other twelve Norse gods. Loki (the trickster) came to the banquet as the uninvited thirteenth guest. Afterwards, we learn Baldur was slain by Höðr who, to execute the god, was given a magic spear by Loki.

Similarly, the darker symbolism of thirteen continues in its Christian association with the Last Supper. Twelve disciples and the Christ, formed a group of thirteen to share the last meal. Here, thirteen is seen as a foreboding omen as we learn of Christ’s fate after the gathering.

In the same vein, Friday the thirteenth is commonly reviled as it was said the Last Supper in the upper room took place on a Friday. Further, Friday 13th in 1307 was the date on which the assembly of the Knights Templar were systematically assasinated.

For those who prepare this dish for the first time: Pay close attention to every detail in this recipe, and don’t be deceived by its apparent simplicity! This is my recipe for 5 persons:

Spaghetti
al Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino

	Ingredients: • good virgin olive oil, 5-6 good glugs • 1 head of garlic (or less for the faint of heart), sliced transparently thin • 1 fresh chilli seeded and chopped • 1 fresh flat leaf parsley sprig chopped (optional) • packet of spaghetti (preferably De Cecco) • salt • parmesan cheese
Preparation: • bring a pot of salted water to the boil • cover the base of a frying pan with a third of the oil and heat • add the garlic and chilli and cook until the garlic is starting to colour • remove from the heat and add the parsley • cook the spaghetti until al dente and drain • mix the spaghetti with the sauce, add the rest of the crude oil and serve with loads of grated parmesan on top!	Buon appetito!

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